Waves and bars and breaking water
Frequently due to local configurations of many factors like wind, sea floor, tides and flows - waves may be seen to break more frequently at regular distances from the shore – a sand bar may be forming or perhaps has already formed. Small waves travelling in the direction of this sand bar may pass over it without breaking, but as we have mentioned below they will be affected by it, inevitably they will be slowed and their wavelengths decreased.
Larger waves moving in from the sea will break on or at the bar as soon as the water depth reaches less than 1.3 times the waves height. Breaking waves with their forward momentum will push large quantities of water over the bar and inshore creating rising levels of water. This water has to return seawards and often does so through channels scoured through narrow sections of the bar both by waves and returning water.
This can be a dangerous place to fish, keep in mind the factors from Part I aswell as these -scour holes, drop offs, and currents will be plentiful – but – because of these circumstances and in the right conditions and at the right times fish will be holding up here and they will be hunting actively.
Next Open sandy shore and the tidal influences